Starting in March was, in hindsight, a little early!
Day 1 - 18 March 17, I started off from Salisbury Railway station on the 0730 to Minehead. After a two changes, and a few hours I arrive to an overcast, grey Somerset. I decide that a sensible meal (chilli con carne), and a pint (Butcome - 4.5% ABV) would serve as a good foundation to start this walk..!
Day 1 - 18 March 17, I started off from Salisbury Railway station on the 0730 to Minehead. After a two changes, and a few hours I arrive to an overcast, grey Somerset. I decide that a sensible meal (chilli con carne), and a pint (Butcome - 4.5% ABV) would serve as a good foundation to start this walk..!
Official start point of the SW Coast Path - Minehead |
My notes, for that first afternoon walk include "still grey, but brighter" and "some showers, put on waterproof trousers for 30 mins, wind fierce, but not cold".
I walked (as per SW coast book - day 1) to Porlock Weir, and set up the tent, between Bossington and Porlock Weir, in a field, behind a tree line to shelter from the wind.
Porlock Beach - early morning |
Across Porlock Beach, and on through Culbone forest, which reminded me of Watersmeet, tall evergreen trees with lots of cover from the wind.
Mid-morning break in Culbone Wood |
Stopped for lunch at Lynmouth's Rock House (hotel), eating a Steak & Kidney pie with mash, and a couple of pints of St.Austell Brewery's Tribute ale (4.2% ABV), very relaxing and an opportunity to charge my phone! The afternoon was again windy, with added rain!
Managed to find a quiet, level site at Heddon's Mouth. The downside of this was no phone signal, which meant 'radio silence' from lunch on the 19th to mid-morning on the 20th - wife and daughter were not happy!
Good sheltered spot, but I did need to pack the tent, etc away in the rain, the next morning.
Epic weather |
Day 3 - 20 March 17 - Heddon's Mouth to Ilfracombe. Worst weather, and the most demanding day (so far!). Walking up on top of Exmoor, with storm force headwind and rain transforming the path into temporary streams
Path became streams! |
Arrived at Coombe Martin (the mid-way point) at lunchtime. I was soaked through, getting cold, and wanted something to eat. But..it was Monday, restaurants were closed, and the Dolphin Inn kitchen was closed. I made do with a Doom Bar, packet of crisps, some salami, and then a latte and Snickers for dessert. By the time I had finished lunch, the weather had eased, and I continued on to Ilfracombe.
Approaching Ilfracombe |
The weather continued to brighten, and it was difficult to believe how bad it had been just a few hours before. Arrived at Ilfracombe about 5pm.
Walked around the fishing village to find accommodation for the night.
Night 3 - Ilfracombe Park |
So after a quick pint in the Ship & Pilot, I walked back up to the park and set up for the night. I didn't sleep well due to both noise (from the sea) and cold, which was a recurring problem!
Day 4B - 21 March 17, I started my 4th day, having already completed 1st half of today's planned walk!
Today's target was Woolacombe, and possibly beyond. I actually arrived Woolacombe at 12.30, but was suffering with right knee pain, so much so, that I bought a support to help. I considered stopping here, resting the knee, and continuing the next day. I half heartedly looked for a B+B, and then decided to stop for lunch (full breakfast!) at a cafe, to consider options. I had a full afternoon to continue, and so reasoned that it would be wasteful to rest, I continued on!
Woolacombe beach |
Croyde Bay, with 'weather' behind! |
The weather forecast overnight was bad, so I decided to stop overnight in a B&B, in Croyde.
I found The Thatch pub B&B @ £50 with shared bathroom, and breakfast. I had a couple of pints with nachos (because I'd already had the fat boy breakfast in Woolacombe!).
I unpacked everything, did some washing, and arranged it carefully on the radiator, and hung in the wardrobe.
I had an enforced lie in, because breakfast was not available until 8am, which is late considering I have had my porridge, coffee, and packed up by about 7.15 when wild camping.
Day 5B - 22 March 17, Croyde Bay to Braunton 8.8 miles sounds reasonable, and with another large breakfast I started at 0840. Today's walk was easy, as it mostly followed the 'Tarka Trail' (a disused railway track), so I kept walking...and walking...and walking. At the end of the day, I had completed Days 5B, 6A - Braunton to Barnstaple, 6B - Barnstaple to Instow, and started Day 7 - Instow to Bideford to Westward Ho! In total 24 miles, which ended at the Joiners' Arms, Bideford. £35, no breakfast, and It was grim! The place was deserted, I think I was the only person in the building after closing time, and there was no lock on my door!
Day 7 (ctd) - 23 March 17, Set off from Bideford as soon as I could! On route to Westward Ho! on the final day of part one. Just 8.7 miles, and despite cold and windy, this was a relatively easy walk (which was just as well, considering the state of my knee and feet pain).
I stopped for breakfast at Coffee Corner, Appledore, which had been recommended by two separate individuals. It was nice, if a little expensive at £9.90, but I preferred the Thatch's offering
Walked around a golf course, and saw surfers braving the wind and cold. Finished at the 'Haunted House' on the far side of Westward Ho!
Overall, I walked the 7 planned days in 5! However at a cost, my knees were painful for at least 10 days afterwards! I will take the following action to reduce the stress..
1. reduce the distance walked each day
2. reduce the weight in my rucksack
3. continue to strengthen core, and glutes.
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